Radar has been around for more than 100 years and has
progressed from being a scientific novelty to becoming the
most versatile of marine electronics. You can use radar to
find out where you are, to find your way into unfamiliar
harbors, to dodge thunderstorms, or even to find fish by
picking out flocks of feeding seabirds. By far its most
important use it that for which it was first intended—collision
avoidance.
Radar works by transmitting short, intense pulses of
radio energy, then listening for the faint echoes that
come back. Using radar effectively is a multi-stage
process that involves making the most of the tiny scraps
of energy that are reflected from distant objects or poor
reflectors, then removing the clutter that is produced by
reflections from things we don’t want to see, such as
waves and sometimes clouds. After that, you can start on
the third stage—interpreting the useful information you
have received.
THE RIGHT SETTINGS
Brightness, contrast and color: These elements help you
see contacts more clearly, so they need to be set up
properly. Set the brightness control high enough for the
picture to be visible, but not so high that it is dazzling.
If you still have a unit with a monochrome display, adjust
the contrast so it gives the clearest picture possible.
Most color displays offer a choice of color palettes, and
which one you choose is up to you. Most people prefer to
have a dark background at night.
Gain: The gain control adjusts the
receiver’s amplification. If gain is set too high, the
screen will be filled with a mass of speckles. This is the
visual equivalent of the noise you hear when the squelch
control is wrongly adjusted on a radio. If it is set too
low, real echoes will be missed.
First, increase the gain control until the screen is
full of speckles, then reduce it until the speckles have
disappeared from all but the center of the screen. At
short ranges, it often pays to turn the gain down a little
further, because this produces a less “blobby”
picture. When looking for weak or distant targets, turn it
back up until the speckles start to reappear.
 |
| TUNING: Always make
tuning adjustments in small steps; make sure the
weak contacts are as strong and bright as
possible. |
Tuning: Even though a radar listens
for the echoes of its own transmissions, the receiver
still needs to be tuned to the right frequency. Luckily,
the “auto-tune” function on most modern radar sets is
very good at doing this. If you want, or need to, tune
your set by hand, set the gain first, then select a long
or medium range and look for a weak contact on the screen.
Next, adjust the tuning in small steps, either up or down,
waiting about three seconds after each adjustment for the
picture to be completely redrawn under the new setting. If
the contact looks weaker, adjust the tuning back the other
way. Keep going until the contact is as strong and bright
as possible.
 |
| CLUTTER CONTROL: Because
it's a crude tool, it must be used carefully in
order to avoid removing boats, buoys, and even
land. |
Clutter control: Some things produce
echoes we don’t really want to see. Seawater, in
particular, is such a good reflector that the center of a
radar screen is often packed with big bright blobs
generated by the radar energy being reflected from waves
immediately around the boat. The sea-clutter control can
remove these blobs, but it’s a crude tool that can also
erase boats, buoys and even land.
To be sure it is working effectively, turn the
sea-clutter control down to its minimum setting. That way
you will know it’s doing no harm. Then, if sea clutter
truly is a problem, you can turn the clutter control back
up, as little as possible.
Finally, there is the interference-rejection control that
erases visual clutter caused when your radar receives
transmissions from another boat’s radar. This control
can do nothing but good, so there’s no point in
switching it off.
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| SEA AND RAIN CLUTTER:
Sea clutter is at the bottom of the photo at the
center of the range rings; rain clutter is
directly above on the vertical heading mark |
Rain-clutter controls can be equally dangerous. While
they do remove smudgy contacts created by rain clouds,
they also degrade echoes from genuine targets. The rule of
thumb here is the same as for the sea-clutter control:
turn it off when you don’t need it, and then use it as
sparingly as you can.
Some radars have two rain-clutter controls, one usually
affects only the area in the middle of the screen, while
the other, often called “FTC,” affects the entire
scanning area.
Collision avoidance
One foggy morning a 900ft container ship, heading west
at 25 knots, collided with a 40ft sailboat that, until a
few minutes before the collision, had been heading north
at about 7 knots. The investigators criticized the
ship’s conduct, but they also found that if both vessels
had maintained their course and speed, the sailboat would
probably have passed at least three quarters of a mile
ahead of the ship. Unfortunately, the sailboat skipper
misinterpreted his radar display and decided to stop—right
in front of the ship. The lesson here is that the clearest
radar contact in the world won’t do you any good if you
can’t make sense of it.
True or relative: Until a few years
ago one’s own vessel was always at the center of a radar
screen, heading straight up. However, that’s no longer
the case. True-motion displays, in which the center of the
radar picture moves across the screen in step with the
boat’s movement in the real world, are increasingly
common.
In a collision avoidance situation, it’s best to
switch off the true-motion function, and go to the
relative-motion mode. Your vessel appears to be stationary
at the center of the radar screen, while the rest of the
world moves past it. There are a number of options to
consider.
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| NORTH UP DISPLAY: Data
provided by an electronic compass enables the
radar to be rotated so the display has North in
the up position |
Head-up or North-up: All radars can
display a head-up picture, in which a line pointing
straight up from the center of the screen represents the
subject vessel’s forward motion. This is useful, because
things in front of the boat are at the top of the screen,
things on the starboard side are on the right, and so
forth. But if the boat yaws, the picture also yaws, and
blobs representing other vessels turn into vague smears.
Data sent from an electronic compass to the radar
allows it to rotate the head-up image to produce a cap
north-up picture where north is at the top of the screen.
In both formats, the boat’s heading is still represented
by the straight line of the heading mark. Which display
you prefer is up to you.
 |
| COLLISION COURSE: If a
contact is moving directly toward the center of
the screen, and there is no change of course,
you will share the same patch of water with the
other vessel |
Will it hit me?: For over a century
the Navigation Rules have advised that “risk shall be
deemed to exist if the compass bearing of an approaching
vessel does not appreciably change.” On a
relative-motion display, where our own boat is at the
center of a radar image, the logic is obvious. If a
contact appears to be moving straight toward the center of
the screen, there is a risk of collision.
One easy way to tell if this is happening is to use the
feature known as “tracks, trails or wakes,” in which
the past positions of each contact are displayed as a pale
trail on the screen. If you can, set the trail length to
six minutes or one tenth of an hour. This makes it easy to
calculate a contact’s speed. For example if a trail is
two miles long, the closing speed of the other vessel is
two miles in a tenth of an hour, or 20 knots.
 |
| PASS ASTEARN: A relative
motion display shows the direction and distance
at which a contact will pass closest to the
center of the screen, your boat; it's called the
CPA, or Closest Point of Approach |
Close approach: A conventional compass
can tell you whether there is a risk of collision, but it
can’t tell you if you’re going to miss an approaching
vessel by 500 or 2,000 yards. Radar can do this, as long
as you keep a record of the movement of a contact across
the screen, or if you look at the direction of the wake
the contact leaves behind it.
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| PASS AHEAD: If the
contact is tracking so it will cross the heading
marker and there is no course or speed change,
the contact will cross in front of you |
If a contact is heading straight for the center of the
screen for a few minutes, unless someone does something,
the contact will continue to converge. Suppose, though,
that the contact isn’t heading for the center, but is
going to pass 1,000 yards from the center? The same
principle applies here: unless someone does something to
change the situation, the contact will keep moving in the
same direction and at the same speed, until it does pass
1,000 yards from the screen’s center. The point at which
the contact is closest to the center of the screen—the
other ship is closest to your boat—is called the closest
point of approach, or CPA.
Remember, when predicting a CPA, if it appears the
contact will cross the heading marker, the ship will pass
ahead of us and we will pass astern of it. But if the
contact is going to pass behind us, that means we will
pass in front of it—just like the boat that was hit by
the container ship. It is important to understand this
distinction.
Giving way in fog: Normal steering and
sailing rules do not apply when visibility is restricted
by fog or other conditions. This is when Rule 19 takes
over. The rule says, among other things, that if you
detect another vessel by radar, you should:
• Avoid altering course to port for a vessel forward
of the beam, other than for a vessel being overtaken.
• Avoid altering course toward a vessel that is abeam
or abaft the beam.
In other words, in restricted visibility, the
Navigation Rules encourage you to alter course to port for
a vessel on your starboard quarter, and to turn to
starboard for everything else.